Fashion was in the air — and on the runway — at the BRICS+ Fashion Summit in Moscow in early December. With 10 fashion shows by 13 designers over the course of the five-day event, the summit was packed with style—and you know how we love fashion.
From Hany El Behairy's mesmerizing gowns to Shruti Sancheti's hand-woven masterpieces, the pieces on display were quite diverse and, in my opinion, for multiple audiences. There was no fixed audience to which these clothes were being marketed.
From over-the-top glam to muted elegance, there was something for everyone. Check out this list of my favorite designers (and their designs) from the summit.
Hani Alberi
With intricate bead and thread work in her designs, is it any wonder that she wore the most expensive dress in the world - worth $15 million? According to the designer, she used real jewelery in the dress - which was later returned to the jeweller.
He told Images that he came to the BRICS+ fashion summit to present his new collection because he was looking for support — whether it was shopping for new materials, cultural inspiration or deals. "Designers from all over the world are excited to come to Moscow. I know that Moscow and Russia [have a really good background] in clothes, textiles and fashion, so for me it was perfect.
He said his inspiration comes from museums - particularly the Louvre in Paris. Since he was young, Biheri had an interest in embroidery - encouraged by his mother and grandmother, who taught him to embroider.
That love continues today, especially in his designs that are bold, loud and elegant. She said people have asked her to make clothes that are a little more simple, maybe to attract more customers, but that's not her style.
Arzu Caprol
Turkish designer Arzu Caprol's designs were all about glitzy glamor and sparkling beauty.
Unlike Bihari, most of his designs seemed more suited to clubs or parties than weddings or balls but his designs had the same wow factor that Bihari did.
The beadwork and the use of different materials made Caprol's designs quite attractive.
This dress was one of my favorites simply because of how it's over the top but understated. There is no beadwork or embroidery here - it stands out purely on the basis of color and design.
Shruti Sancheti
There's something to be said for avant garde fashion but, in my opinion, there's more to be said for fashion that makes it off the runway and into people's closets. Some clothes look good but most people can't see themselves wearing those clothes.
That's why I loved Shruti Sancheti's collection—she had clothes that I could see myself or other people wearing. Combining traditional materials and designs with streetwear elements, I enjoyed checking out his clothes in person at his show and at the Peak B2B showroom.
Sancheti told Images that the fabric used in her line, Hit to High Streets, was entirely handmade.
"In some parts of Southeast Asia, we still have hand-loom as a tradition and all my clothes are hand-woven and hand-made. And what we've done is a very different approach to clothing. "It adds a contemporary touch because even though these textiles are beautiful and our country has this unparalleled legacy of textiles and handicrafts, we realize that what was relevant a few years ago is not relevant now," he explained.
"The whole idea is to take India to a global arena and thus [my clothes] are a fusion of international styling with Indian craftsmanship and the result is something simple that anyone in the world can wear."
And a fusion they really are – long baggy dresses, flowing trousers and relaxed shirts paired with long coats with traditional tassels and prints, her clothes were a mix of traditional and contemporary.
Ritesh Kumar
Comfort seemed to be a key theme with Indian designers who showcased their work at the BRICS+ Fashion Summit.
Ritesh Kumar, another designer from across the border, showcased a much more contemporary fit, playing with materials and jacket silhouettes to create more relaxed outfits that I could see on any high street in the world. I especially liked the materials used in its design, which looked incredibly wearable, just like Sanchetti.
Naushad Ali
If Kumar's designs were ultra-modern, designer Naushad Ali's was a mix of modern and traditional, incorporating traditional embroideries and patterns to create more feminine, flowing silhouettes that wouldn't look out of place.
Maybe I'm overthinking the point, but all Indian designers had clothes that looked like they were meant to be worn. These weren't just collections made for magazines and runways - they were made for us, the people.
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